Equipment

• Pros: This collar is fine for its primary purpose: identification and basic restraint. It is also effective when used on a dog who does not pull on the leash when he is being walked.
• Cons: Often dogs will gag or choke when exerting force against the collar.

• Using this collar to reduce pulling: Most flat or buckle collar are relatively ineffective when used to try to stop a dog from pulling on the leash, especially if the dog has a history of pulling. You must train the dog not to pull.

• Pros: The head collar uses minimal force and pain and maximizes control in order to move a dog in the direction you wish him to go.
• Cons: Initially this may be uncomfortable for the dog, and it's sometimes perceived as a muzzle by passers by (owners, of course, know better). Some dogs refuse to accept the head collar, even after wearing it for weeks or months. Some dogs refuse to move, others try to work it off with their paws, objects or human legs.

• Using the head collar to reduce pulling: This piece of equipment is very comfortable for the owner, and reduces pulling substantially when it is worn. However, you must also train the dog not to pull, otherwise the dog goes back to the previous unwanted behavior when the halter is not being worn.
  
  
• Fitting a head collar: Each head collar should be fitted according to the manufacturer's directions. When fitted properly, it can be worn comfortably by most dogs.

• Pros: The collar does not easily come off the dog's neck, even if the dog is pulling backward. It looks like a normal collar, and has a restricted range of tightness that prevents choking the dog.
• Cons: Ineffective on a dog that is a dedicated puller.

• Using this collar to reduce pulling: This collar is effective on many dogs that pull somewhat on the leash, but are easily discouraged from doing so. Good timing (a trained skill) is essential for the collar to be most effective.
  
  
• Fitting the Martingale: The martingale should fit very comfortably around the neck. Most martingales slip over the head of the dog, and have to be fitted while actually on the dog. Others have a clasp. With either, when the collar is on the dog and the dog pulls against it, the two ends of the looped chain or fabric should not meet in the middle. Thus, the dog feels some constriction when he or she pulls against the collar.

• Pros: Other than the no-pull harnesses, these are fairly benign pieces of equipment, when fitted appropriately. They rarely cause any pain, and sometimes work quite well on small dogs, who cannot pull hard against the harnesses. They also are preferred for dogs who have had neck injuries.
• Cons: Almost completely ineffective when used to stop pulling by medium to large dogs, except when a no-pull harness is used. The no-pull harnesses sometimes cause rubbing or chafing abrasions on the back of the dog's leg.

• Using the harness to train: Not effective on most dogs as it allows them to use the full force of their legs and chest to pull against the leash. On small dogs, however, this can be an excellent choice, as the dogs cannot really pull against its, since they're so low to the ground. It also protects their neck and trachea.
  
  
• Fitting the harness: Different makes of harness attach in ways too varied to go into detail here. However, care should be taken to avoid chafing under the dog's front legs, and of course the harness should not be too tight.
  
  
• Choke collars and pinch collars are not allowed in our training classes.
  

• 2-feet: This length of leash is often used when teaching a dog to walk close to the handler.
• 6-feet: This is the typical length for most dog training classes. It allows the handler to hold most of the leash, if needed, and to teach stationary exercises to the dog without having to stay too close.
• Long Line: This lead can range from ten feet to 40 feet depending on the intended use. It is most often cotton webbing or nylon. Chain does not function well in this application. The line is used to help teach control from long distances.

• Nylon
  • Pros: Nylon is quite hardy and cheap. Leashes made in nylon can be heavy, light, fat or thin. Many people like them for the variety of colors available. They are difficult for a dog to chew through.
  • Cons: A piece of nylon an inch or more wide can be very difficult to hold if the dog pulls hard. It can also cause abrasions on hands.

• Cotton Webbing/Rope
  • Pros: Very inexpensive, light and easy to handle.
  • Cons: Easy for dogs to destroy; hard on hands.

• Leather
  • Pros: Relatively hardy, easy to hold, softens with use.
  • Cons: Easy and sometimes attractive for dogs to chew through. Can be expensive, though a wide range of prices is available.

• Chain
  • Pros: Relatively inexpensive, difficult to impossible for the dog to destroy.
  • Cons: Heavy, interferes with teaching dog to walk without pulling, and can result in injury to the human handler by slapping or getting wrapped around legs in class. Not recommended for classes.

• Retractable lead: It is difficult to hold the leash loosely, and the handle cannot be switched from hand to hand readily.
• Assistance/service dog leads (multiple snaps and rings)
• Leashes with quick release snaps (most common use: field and protection)